Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Return To Bondel Road



For many of us in the shifting community of people who keep coming back to Kolkata for the music, to participate as listeners, students and performers, one of the few constants has been Jon Barlow’s house on Bondel Road. Since the late 1970s the house has often been available for short and long-term stays, and many of us have spent weeks and even months there. The constant within the constant of Bondel Road has been Bablu, Jon’s servant and cook, who has taken care of us on a wide variety of levels. No one is staying at Bondel this year, but I found myself nearby on Tuesday, when I went by the Weavers Studio at the request of their staff to check the venue. I walked by to see if Bablu might be there, and as you can see he was quite happy to see a familiar face. With no one there he didn’t have anything to do, so I thought of having Bablu make lunch for a few of the people in town who were familiar with the Bondel Road House. That way he would have some work and some extra money and we would get a great meal. “What will you have? Fish? Chicken? Vegetable?” How about all of them! And so 6 of us came a couple of days later for some great home-cooked food. The fortunate in attendance that day: Steve Gorn, Ehren Hanson, Camilla, Andrew McLean, Anindya Banerjee, myself.




Tuesday, January 25, 2011

A Tribute To Bhimsen Joshi

The passing yesterday of Bhimsen Joshi, a towering figure in Hindustani classical music in the 20th century, has occupied many pages of the papers this morning with tributes, and many FB postings. I was very fortunate to meet Pandit-ji while traveling with Ali Akbar Khan in 1989, and through him I learned an interesting but quite unusual lesson about artistry. Our group, which included Ken Zuckerman and myself with Khansahib, went to Bhimsen-ji’s house the day after Khansahib had performed for the Sawai Ghandharva music conference – a series of all-night concerts held outdoors in the courtyard of a school for thousands of people. Anyway, after the usual introductions and tea, etc., Bhimsen-ji said that he wanted to show Khansahib a project he had started; I think it was a school for the arts. So we all piled into Bhimsen-ji’s car, which was a white 1962 Mercedes 220, a gigantic car on the Indian roads at that time. A grand car, befitting a grand maestro. Bhimsen Joshi was renowned for his love of cars and driving, and Khansahib told stories of driving all over India with him to festivals. Anyone who has been to India from anywhere else in the world is instantly struck by the swirling chaos of noise that accompanies all forms of motorized transport (and Indians traveling abroad for the first time are often overwhelmed by the utter silence with which the movement of traffic takes place in the West). It seems that basically everyone blows whatever they have for a horn as loud as they can just about all the time. However, as we drove in the Mercedes through the city traffic in Pune, pretty much plowing through anything smaller that stood in front of us, I began to notice something in how Bhimsen Joshi used his horn. I began to see that the horn was not random; that each sound was directed at a particular object or person, and somehow modulated to match the intended recipient. He was using sound to carve his way through the traffic, with what seemed a similar level of attention and expertise that he applied to shaping his musical exposition and improvisation. It was ART! 





Monday, January 24, 2011

Concert Schedule Changes

There have been some changes and additions to my tour schedule, so I re-posting the information for my remaining programs as I now have them. The most exciting development has been the invitation from Pandit Nayan Ghosh to participate in the Saraswati Puja program at his school, Sangit Mahabharati. I will get to play the final item of the evening, with Nayan, one of the greatest players around, accompanying me on tabla. I have also gotten an invitation to perform for a music circle in Mysore, South India, thanks to Pandit Rajeev Taranath. Rajeev-ji lives in Mysore now, and I am looking forward to being able to visit and sit with him for talim for a few days at the end of my trip. The Karnatik Sangh program was going to be cancelled, but has instead been moved to February 13th, so I will have to get back from Mysore in time to do that, then leave India the next morning for Dubai.



January 29th, 6:30 pm
David Trasoff-sarode; Hironori Yuzawa-tabla
Steve Gorn-bansuri
Yuji Nakagawa-sarangi

Thakur Village Music Club
Gundecha Club, Valley of Flowers, Opposite Sunflower Society,
Thakur Village, Kandivali East, Mumbai 400101.
Phone: +91-22-66430915

January 30th, 4:30 pm-8:00 pm
Yuji Nakagawa – sarangi, Shruteendra Katagade - tabla
Steve Gorn – bansuri, Shantanu Shukla – tabla
David Trasoff – sarode, Ty Burhoe – tabla

S P Institute of Technology Seminar Hall, Ground floor, next to S P Jain Institute,
Bhavan's Cultural Centre Andheri (BCCA)
Dadabhai Rd, Andheri
Mumbai
Phone: 91-22-30938017

February 8th, 7:30 pm
David Trasoff-sarode; Nayan Ghosh-tabla
A program in honor of Saraswati Puja

Sangit Mahabharati
A-6 10th Road, Sangit Mahabharati Chowk
Vile Parle West (Juhu Scheme)      
Mumbai 400 049

February 10th or 11th
David Trasoff-sarode
Sapta Swara Music Circle
Mysore, India
Details forthcoming

February 13th, 10:30 am
David Trasoff-sarode; Prafulla Athalye-tabla

Karnatic Sangh Hall (Karnataka Sangha) 
Dr. M. Visvesvaraya Smarak Mandir, Mogul Lane, off T.H. Kataria Marg           
Mahim (W) Mumbai 400 016

Concert in Kolkata

With a couple of days off I was able to go and see a concert; this one was part of a five-day music festival held yearly in honor and memory of the great sarod player Radhika Mohan Maitra. The first item was my deasr friend and Kolkata brother Anindya Banerjee, performing on the sursringar, a now very rare instrument. Ali Akbar Khan's father was a great master of this instrument, and Khansahib only taught Anindya the traditional technique of playing in a kneeling position with the instrument held over the shoulder.

The hall was packed to the last seat to listen to Kaushiki Chakravorty Desikan, who is now the crown princess of Hindustani vocal music. Beautiful voice, fantastic control, great creativity. She was accompanied by Subhankar Bannerjee, one the very best tabla players performing today. Vocal accompaniment is very understated - sometimes you show your skill by how little you play. As has very often been the case for years now, the sound in the hall was awful - loud and distorted. I had gone backstage to see Anindya, stayed to say hello to various people in the wings and found myself backstage when Kaushiki began her recital. I realized that the sound was much better! I am posting a short video clip to give an idea on her performance.


Oh, The Food!

I’ve been asked to write sometimes about food. Kolkata is still an incredible bargain for such a large city, especially compared with Mumbai or Delhi. Great street food like the freshly made chicken egg rolls available at stalls on almost every street, rather like getting a taco from a taco truck in LA. A great light meal for about 50¢. The dhaba down the street, a small open-front restaurant specializing in tandoori, kebabs and dense, plain but very tasty curry dishes served fast. Usually run by Sikhs from what I have seen here. I had a half tandoori chicken (the chickens are very small), dal tarka, and a couple of rumali roti – large but very thin bread (rumali means “handkerchief”) – for a late dinner after coming from a concert for less than 100 rupees, or $2. These are the type of place that most foreigners would probably not see unless they had local friends, or might even panic at the thought of going to, but they are very clean and totally cool. Although there are lots of very fancy places in town where you can drop as much money as you would going out anywhere else in the world, many very nice regular restaurants are also first rate – South Indian, Chinese, Bengali – you could never get real Bengali food in the past unless you were invited to someone’s home. Now there are a growing number of places with a middle class clientele, which I suppose is an indicator of a shift in both economics and cultural attitudes.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

First Program For This Trip

Sunday was my first program for this trip, at the Bhowanipur Sangit Sammilani, probably the oldest music circle/presenting orgamization in Kolkata, since 1900. The gentleman currently at the head of the organization has been running it for more than 50 years. I got to the hall earlier than I had expected. The previous night there had been so much traffic that it would have taken a taxi about 30 minutes to cover the 3-4 kilometers, but I forgot that it was Sunday and arrived in 5 minutes. The first item, a vocalist, should have been in progress for about 20 minutes. Instead I found that they hadn’t even started to set up the sound system yet. The program started 1 hour and 20 minutes late, which I thought was a bit much even by the flexible standards of time in Kolkata. But several other programs I went to see later were delayed by as much as two hours, so maybe I was lucky. Certainly I was lucky that the tabla player booked to play with me, Sangram Roy, was a really fine musician. Sitting to play a concert with an accompanist that you haven’t played with before can be a real roll of the dice, and frankly the odds are usually not favorable. Everyone can play with great skill and speed, the issue is whether they have good musical sense, whether they want to make music together or just get their 15 minutes of glory. I will be happy to play with Sangram again if I get the chance, and he asked me to contact him before I come to India next, so maybe that chance will come. So, for playing a first concert, with some factor of jet lag and an unfamiliar accompanist, I was satisfied with the outcome. I think, well, I know, that the main reason I come to play in India is to see whether I can keep my cool and play the music I want to play under the circumstances of wildly varying conditions for a knowledgeable audience.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

In Kolkata


First day spent taking care of chores (getting yet another new mobile phone number after having to jump through seemingly endless hoops – thank you Anindya!), connecting with close friends who have also come or who live here, going to see Subroto Roy Choudhury at the Bhowanipur Sangit Sammilani hall where I will play tomorrow, well, later today actually, to check out the scene and meet the organizer.

Transit House, the guest house where I’ve stayed the last 10 years or so, is still great. The new young guy working here, Sanjib, managed to rustle up a really nice dinner for me, fish curry and vegetables, even late on the night I came in. Great masala dosa for breakfast. I guess I’m really in India now.

Back to Mother India





15 ½ hours to Dubai, watched Social Network, The American, Wall Street 2. Pretty tolerable for coach. Dubai airport arrivals is gigantic and empty, endless huge corridor rooms, like they’re waiting for some gigantic procession to arrive someday. Hotel Premier Inn was comfortable enough for the room and bed, v. clean, but the food was extremely limited, tasteless and unimaginative and expensive for what you get. Such a contrast to even mid-priced Bangkok hotels. And you are stuck unless you take a taxi somewhere.

Returning to the airport to fly on to Kolkata the next morning, still evident how empty this gigantic airport is. More attendants in the duty free stores than people shopping. Arriving in Kolkata is such a relatively smooth procedure these days, such a contrast from even a few years ago. And at least there is no flu scare as there was last year, where the flights were met by health “officials” wearing masks demanding that strange and useless forms be filled out before you could even go to immigration. Kolkata is now full of road and rail construction projects, blocking and tying up roads everywhere. No doubt it will all be for the better some day…

Monday, January 10, 2011

India 2011 Tour Info


January 16th, 6:00-9:00 pm

Dr. Chitrita Sinha-vocal; with Shri Surojit Saha-tabla & Shri Pradip Palit-harmonium

Dr. David Trasoff-sarode; Shri Sangram Roy-tabla

Bhowanipur Sangit Sammilani

4 Ramesh Mitra Road, Bhowanipur, Kolkata, 700 025


January 19th, 6:00-9:00 pm

David Trasoff-sarode; Josh Feinberg-sitar; Ashoke Chakraborty-tabla

Studio 21

17-L, Dover Terrace, Ballygunge, Kolkata, 700017

Phone: 91-33-24866735


January 20th, 5:00 pm

Classical vocal by Ujjwal Dutta

Duet recital by David Trasoff (sarode ) and Biswarup Paul (vocal )

Tabla accompaniment by Aurobinda Bhattacharaya

Hindusthani Classical Music Circle, Howrah

Bholagiri Kala Mandir,

107, Netaji Subhas Road, Howrah 700001


January 21st, 6:30-8:00 pm

David Trasoff-sarode; Debopriyo Sarkar-tabla

Weavers Studio Centre for the Arts

94 Ballygunge Place, Kolkata 700 019

Phone : 91-33-24613145

http://www.wscentreforthearts.com/


January 23rd, 9:30 am

Amarendra Dhaneshwar-Vocal

David Trasoff-sarode; Prafulla Athalye-tabla

Dadar Matunga Cultural Centre

122-A, J K Sawant Marg, Opp Bombay Glass Works,

Mahim, Mumbai 400 016

Phone: 91-22-24304150

http://www.dadarmatungaculturalcentre.org/


January 29th, 6:30 pm

David Trasoff-sarode; Hironori Yuzawa-tabla

Steve Gorn-bansuri

Yuji Nakagawa-sarangi

Thakur Village Music Club

Gundecha Club, Valley of Flowers, Opposite Sunflower Society,

Thakur Village, Kandivali East, Mumbai 400101.

Phone: +91-22-66430915


January 30th, 6:00 pm

Steve Gorn – bansuri, Swapnil Bhise – tabla

David Trasoff – sarode, Ty Burhoe – tabla

S P Institute of Technology Seminar Hall, Ground floor, next to S P Jain Institute,

Bhavan's Cultural Centre Andheri (BCCA)

Dadabhai Rd, Andheri

Mumbai
Phone: 91-22-30938017

February 6th, 10:30 am

David Trasoff-sarode; Prafulla Athalye-tabla

Karnatic Sangh Hall (Karnataka Sangha)

Dr. M. Visvesvaraya Smarak Mandir, Mogul Lane, off T.H. Kataria Marg

Mahim (W) Mumbai 400 016